Bicycle Maintenance

Brake Basics

1. Brake types
   • Road bikes have center-mount, side pull brakes
   • Mountain, touring, cyclocross and hybrid bikes have cantilever mount brakes
   • Linear, side pull cantilevers or vee brakes are the most common on new bikes
2. Noises
   • Squeals and scrapes are the most common noises which can be fixed
   • Brakes squeal from pads hitting the rim flat; toe in brake pads to stop noises
   • Scraping means you need to either sand the metal out of the pads or replace them
3. Pad wear
   • Brake pads should be replaced when you get down to about ¼" of pad left
   • Properly toed in brakes wear at a slight angle; too much and they will wear faster
   • Front brake pads last longer because the front brake is stronger
4. Lever adjustment
   • Your brakes will hit sooner if you unscrew the barrel adjusters around the housing
   • You can shorten the reach with a screw that points toward the other brake lever
   • Your first lever adjustment should start with the barrel adjusters all the way in
5. Maintenance
   • Find out how to use the brake cable quick release at the lever; this will aid in cleaning
   • Inspect brake pads for wear or metal shards; sand pads to remove metal
   • Sand pads to improve braking; heat from braking will glaze pads and reduce power

Causes of Flats

1. Punctures
   • Glass, thorns, nails, staples, screws; anything sharp can cause a flat
   • These result in slow leaks that can take up to 48 hours to go completely flat
   • Usually easily repaired with patch kit; not normally associated with severe tire damage
2. Pinch flats
   • Compression of the tube between your rim and a hard surface
   • Known as 'snakebites,' these are dramatic, audible flats that deflate quickly
   • Hard to repair with patches; replace tube or use oval patches; rim damage possible
3. Tire damage
   • Improperly adjusted brakes can rub through tire and cause tube to blow out of tire
   • Maintaining proper tire pressure helps prevent flats and maximizes rolling efficiency
   • Worn tires leave less rubber between the tube and the road, decreasing flat protection
4. Rims
   • Spokes and sharp spots on the inside wall of the rim can cause flats
   • Recurring flats are usually caused by sharp metal on the rim or part of a spoke
   • Use a file or sandpaper to buff off the sharp spot and remove any burrs
5. Flat forensics
   • Carefully studying where the hole in the tube will allow you to find its cause
   • Make sure that you keep the wheel, tube and tire in the same orientation
   • Flats may be caused by imperfections in the tube; these may be impossible to detect

Drivetrain and Chain Maintenance

The Bicycle is one of the most efficient vehicles ever built. It will take an individual farther for a given amount of energy than any other form of transportation. One reason for this is the chain drive.

Basically unchanged for one hundred years, the chain drive allows only two percent of energy to be lost between the chainrings and the cassette. By comparison, even the most fuel efficient car loses about 80 percent of the engine's energy before it moves the car. Complementing its ability to conserve power, a bicycle is one of the most frugal forms of transportation, requiring less than two cents per mile to operate.

Chain Replacement
The modern bicycle chain has a half inch pitch, meaning it is one half inch, pin to pin. One link consists of two inner plates, two outer plates, two pins and two rollers. While the pins fit tightly into the outer plates, both the inner plates and the rollers pivot freely on the pins.

As a chain wears out, so do the chainrings on your cranks and the cogs on your rear wheel. How do you prevent such damage? Well, there are a few theories about how to keep the drivetrain of your bike in good working order without spending too much money.

One is the "Replace Your Chain Before It Wears Out" theory. Keeping constant vigil over your chain by checking it monthly and replacing it as soon as it wears out will make your other parts last much longer. If you ride regularly, you may require as many as three to four chains each year. Estimated cost: $30 to $150, depending on quality of chain and labor costs.

The other is the "Lazy Person's Wait Until It's Finished" theory. This follows the idea that your bike will tell you when it's ready to have its chain replaced. As chains stretch, cog sets wear out and so do small chainrings. When you pedal under load, (uphill, for example) and your chain 'skips,' you are seeing the end of the road for most of your drivetrain. At this point, you need a new chain, cassette and quite possibly a new small chainring. Under normal road conditions, you might realistically expect to get two years out of these parts. Estimated cost: $70 to $200 every two to three years, again, depending on quality of parts and labor costs.

Chain Care
In order to get the maximum life from your chain, you should consider three things:

Quality of the Chain: The differences between less expensive and more expensive chains are the shape of the plates, quality of materials and the riveting of the pins. Chain side plates are designed to help the chain shift better, so better quality equals smoother shifts. Higher quality materials are used on more expensive chains increase chain life. In addition, pins are 'mushroomed' in the higher quality chains after they are pushed into the plates at the factory. This process increases the tolerances of the chain plates and makes for a stronger, longer lasting chain.

Maintaining Your Chain: Regular maintenance of your chain need not be a lengthy or messy process. Simply put: If you can see dirt on the outside of your chain you should to wipe it down with a clean rag. If your chain squeaks or is excessively noisy, it needs lubrication. Remember-- if you can see the lube on the chain, there is too much. Wipe it down with a clean rag. Only the inside of the chain needs to be lubricated. There are many types of lubricants out there for bike chains-- dry, wet, self-cleaning, etc. Find one that works for you and learn how to use it properly. Telling someone what type of lube to use is like telling them what kind of underwear to buy. As a general rule, if you ride where it's wet, use a wet lube. If you ride where it's dry, use a dry lube. You should avoid spray applicators as they tend to be very messy. To apply lube to your chain, pedal the cranks backwards about four times and drip the lube onto the chain. It helps to rest your hand with the lube on your chainstay and contact the lube applicator to the chain, squeezing as you backpedal. After you are finished applying the lube, back pedal about six more times, then wipe off the excess using a clean rag. If your chain is dirty, the rag will soak up dirt and excess lube. Use a cleaner side of the rag and continue wiping excess lube and dirt off the chain by pedaling backwards with one hand, holding the chain with the rag in the other.

Riding on the Chain: Your riding style will affect how long your chain will last. If you ride in a high gear, the lower cadence loads the chain more than if you spin in a lower gear. The less the chain is loaded, the longer it will last. Reducing the amount of cross gearing (large chainring and large cog in the rear or small chainring and small cog in the rear) will also help improve the life of your chain. If you ride a tandem, your chain will most definitely wear faster.

Buying a Replacement Chain
It is important to remember that your new chain be compatible with the drivetrain on your bike. There are multi-speed and singlespeed chains. Check with your local bike shop about which chains they carry and which one will work with your bike. With bikes from a single gear all the way to 30 gears, getting the right chain is very important as one might not work with the other.

Install it Yourself
Replacing your chain need not be a mandatory trip to the local bike shop although you will need tools. First, measure the new chain by wrapping it around your large chainring, through the front derailleur, then around the largest cog in the rear, bypassing the rear derailleur. Then, from the point where the chain comes together, add two links and cut the chain using your chain tool. Do not push the pin all the way out of the other side of the link-plate. Push it far enough that you can break the chain by bending it laterally. If you are unsure of how far to push the pin out, it is best to remove the chain from your chain tool and try before you push the pin all the way out. Most new chains do not require that you use the original pin to rejoin the links. Some chains now come with a special master link for multi-speed chains, much like those for one speed chains. You still need a chain tool to cut the chain, but reattach it using the supplied master link.

Understanding your drivetrain is valuable knowledge for all cyclists. Taking a little extra time to understand how it works will make you a more confident and knowledgeable cyclist and an asset to your riding partners.

Fix a Flat

1. Remove wheel
   • Front: undo brake then wheel quick release and remove
   • Rear: shift into smallest cog in rear, undo brake then hub quick release; remove
   • Rear: set bike upside down on handlebars and seat before opening hub quick release
2. Deflate tire
   • Remove remaining air by depressing valve
   • Schraeder is larger, spring loaded valve and must be depressed; car style valve
   • Presta is all-metal, air sprung narrow valve; unscrew then press
3. Remove one side of tire from rim
   • Using tire levers, unseat one side of tire; start away from valve stem
   • For tight rim/tire combinations, multiple tire levers are needed; do not use metal levers
   • Many mountain and hybrid bikes tires will come off by hand; practice at home
4. Remove tube
   • Remove tube from tire; avoid valve damage by starting away from valve
   • Keep tube and tire in same relative position to each other to aid in finding puncture
   • Inspect tube for hole; mark for patching or use your spare tube for replacement
5. Inspect inside of tire
   • Feel inside of tire for cause of flat; use caution as cause may puncture your finger
   • Remove thorn, glass, staple, nail or whatever caused your flat
   • Inspect tire for damage caused by flat
6. Install new or patched tube
   • After repairing damaged tube or retrieving spare, inflate tube to give it round shape
   • Fold back tire to allow access to valve hole; insert valve first then tube into tire
   • For presta valve, screw valve closed and install valve nut loosly against rim
7. Reseat tire bead
   • Start reseating tire by hand at valve hole; work in both directions
   • Push valve partially back through rim to insure proper seating of tire bead
   • Visually inspect tire bead to insure proper tire seating on rim
8. Inflate tire
   • Inflate tire slowly, checking for bulges which might indicate improper bead seating on rim
   • Deflate if bulge occurs; carefully re-inspect and reseat bead on rim
   • Inflate to desired pressure
9. Install on bike
   • Front: install wheel; tighten hub quick release and attach brakes; make sure it is straight
   • Rear: install wheel by placing chain on top and bottom of small cog
   • Rear: push pulley closest to you forward; drop hub down into frame and tighten
10. Ride away
    • Check brake and hub quick releases; make sure that tire does not rub brakes or frame
    • Check rear derailleur to make sure that shifting is still smooth
    • If anything is wrong, the wheel is probably crooked; make sure wheels are in straight

Front Derailleur Adjustment

1. Set screws
   • Set limits of how far the derailleur travels; turns clockwise decrease range
   • 'H' screw limits how far derailleur can travel away from bike; 'L' towards bike
   • Road and mountain front set screws are on different parts of the derailleur
2. Cage alignment
   • Looking down on derailleur, outside cage should be parallel with the chainrings
   • Replace derailleurs with bent cages as shifting performance will be decreased
   • Cage should line up about 3 mm above biggest chainring with derailleur extended
3. Triple vs. Double
   • Triple chainring derailleurs allow chain to drop lower for the smallest chainring
   • Double chainring derailleurs have narrower cages and cannot be used on triples
   • Triple derailleurs have special areas that help shift chain off of smallest chainring
4. Derailleur types
   • Based on cable routing on the bike, derailleurs are either top or bottom pull
   • Derailleurs also have different clamp diameters for different frame tube sizes
   • Top or bottom swing derailleurs are also available; check with a bike shop
5. Mountain vs. road
   • Mountain derailleurs have a different arc along the cage for smaller chainrings
   • Road derailleurs have a wider arc to accommodate larger chainrings
   • Mountain derailleurs have a wider margin of error to account for mud and dirt

Packing Your Bike

1. Tools
   • 4mm, 5mm and 6mm hex wrenches and pump
   • Pedal wrench (open ended 15mm wrench might work)
   • Small blade or pocket knife to cut cardboard and open box on arrival
2. Materials
   • Obtain a bike box and plastic fork protector from a local bike shop
   • Get extra cardboard boxes to reinforce inside of box and protect the bike
   • Packing tape, sandwich bag, rag, bubble wrap or newspaper (optional)
3. Packing
   • Remove pedals, front wheel and quick release, stem from steerer tube and seatpost
   • Insert bike in box; turn handlebars to allow them to fit; stick seatpost near rear wheel
   • Insert front wheel in front of and just above cranks; cranks should be horizontal
4. Precautions
   • Insert fork protector into fork, wrap frame in bubble wrap or newspaper (optional)
   • Fold a piece of cardboard and place it inside of box, below and in front of fork
   • Place a piece of cardboard between wheel and frame, wheel and box
5. Helpful tips
   • Put pedals and front quick release in sandwich bag with pedal wrench and rag
   • Pack tools and pedal bag together in easily accessible bag or pannier
   • Twist tie a seatpost rail to rear wheel or rack so it can't fall out
6. Potential problems
   • Holes can magically appear in the box during flight/shipping allowing things to fall out
   • Avoid storing helmet or small items in the box with the bike; panniers add protection
   • Sealed items may explode during air transport, including tubes and lube
7. Tracking
   • Write daytime name, address and phone number at least four times on outside of box
   • Write 'fragile' in large letters on every side of the box
   • Look for bike in special or oversized cargo area of airport

Patching Tubes

1. Find the hole
   • Pump tube with air; listen and feel around the tube for the leak
   • Mark hole with chalk or hold under your thumb
   • Use the sandpaper or another abrasive to rough up tube around hole
2. Apply glue
   • Apply glue to the size of a quarter, centered around the hole
   • Allow two to three minutes for glue to set; glue will turn cloudy
   • Make sure that the glue area is slightly larger than the patch
3. Apply patch
   • Remove patch with plastic still attached; do not peel plastic off of patch
   • Place sticky, non-plastic side down, centered over hole
   • Slide it around in a small circle to ensure even distribution of glue
4. Wait and hold
   • Hold patch firmly between thumb and forefinger for about three minutes
   • Time taken now will ensure that your patch will hold later down the road
   • If at home, place tube flat between two books and place heavy object on top
5. Check it
   • Inspect to make sure that the patch bonded to tube all the way around
   • Plastic will keep glue from sticking to inside of tire; wipe off excess
   • Patches can last forever if properly applied

General Mechanic Skills

1. Threads
   • Pedals, stem bolts or waterbottle bolts, grease everything before installing
   • Boat trailer bearing grease is inexpensive and waterproof
   • Grease all flats on bolt heads that will be up against other metal pieces
2. Bearings
   • Bearings should be repacked (cleaned and re-greased) about yearly
   • Races are smooth, precision surfaces on which bearings roll; clean then re-grease
   • Bearings are easily destroyed if you don't understand how to adjust them properly
3. Cranks
   • Grease crank bolts, never grease bottom bracket tapers; you may damage crankarms
   • Grease chainring bolts and surfaces where chainrings attach to crankarm
   • Clean out pedal threads with a rag, bristle brush or degreaser
4. Derailleurs
   • Take care not to lay bike down on its derailleurs; you might damage them
   • Remove dirt or lube related buildup with a rag and flathead screwdriver
   • Inspect derailleur cables and housing for cracking and fraying; replace if necessary
5. Headset
   • Bearings in your headset need annual re-packing; more often if you ride in the rain
   • Clean bearing surfaces, re-grease and replace bearings; use grease to hold them in
   • Clean old grease out with rag, inspect bearing for wear and replace if necessary
6. Seatpost
   • Use sand paper to smooth out inside of seat tube to avoid scratching seatpost
   • Apply liberal coating of grease to top three inches inside seat tube
   • Grease help keep water out of frame tubes and allow easy removal of seatpost
7. Hubs
   • Hubs roll on bearings like your headset; regular service is necessary
   • Turn axle by hand to check hub status; if it feels loose and gritty, clean and re-grease
   • Riding on hubs with no grease can destroy bearings and races
8. Noises
   • Creaks are usually caused by metal shifting on metal under stress, like pedaling
   • Every place two pieces of metal are touching, there should be grease between them
   • Locate noise and silence by re-assembling with a liberal coating of grease
9. How tight is tight?
   • Most parts on a bike do not need to be as tight as humanly possible, just snug
   • Turn bolt until threads are buried then a quarter turn to tight
   • Grease on threads helps to overcome friction and allows proper fastening

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

1. Set screws
   • Set limits of how far the derailleur travels; turns clockwise decrease range
   • 'H' screw (lower) sets how far the derailleur travels away from wheel; for small cog
   • 'L' screw (upper) sets how far the derailleur travels towards wheel; for big cog
2. Barrel adjuster
   • Where the housing and cable enter derailleur, plastic piece is threaded for adjustment
   • Can be screwed by hand for quick adjustments; affects cable tension for shifting
   • If installing new cable, start with barrel adjuster all the way clockwise
3. Derailleur housing
   • Black plastic housing protects cable and allows it to turn corners
   • Too little will affect shifting adversely; leave enough for a gradual sweeping bend
   • Inspect regularly for cracks and other damage; replace yearly with cables
4. Derailleur hanger
   • Part of frame that derailleur threads into; replaceable derailleur hangers are common
   • Hanger must be vertical and parallel to frame to allow proper derailleur alignment
   • Bike shops have a tool that can straighten derailleur hangers unless it's replaceable
5. Time for a new derailleur
   • Grab lower cage and gently move side to side; replace if there is excessive play
   • Main cause of worn derailleur is main pivot that bolts to frame
   • Derailleur Linkage may also weaken or loosen adversely affecting shifting accuracy
6. Throwing a chain
   • If chain shifts into spokes, turn 'L' set screw in half turn increments until fixed
   • If chain shifts onto frame, turn 'H' set screw in half turn increments until fixed
   • A broken chain can tear the derailleur off the bike and destroy wheel or frame
7. Diagnosis
   • Can't shift to easier gears: screw barrel adjuster counterclockwise (increase tension)
   • Can't shift to harder gears: screw barrel adjuster clockwise (decrease tension)
   • Only adjust barrel a half-turn at a time, checking adjustment the bike after each

Tire Pressure

1. Maintenance
   • Tires naturally lose air over time; if you don't pump them up, they will go flat
   • Floor pumps work best at home; they move the most air and are easy to use
   • Skinny tires need air almost daily; fat tires need air weekly
2. Emergency
   • Hand pumps work well in emergency situations; convenience over performance
   • CO2 is fast and easy but can be tricky; carry a pump as backup
   • Long skinny pumps for high-pressure skinny tires; short fat pumps for fat tires
3. Valves
   • Know your valves, presta or schraeder; carry an adapter just in case
   • Both types of valves can be damaged; some tire sealants can clog valves
   • Presta valves tend to hold air better than schraeder valves
4. Personal preference
   • Recommended pressure is printed on tires; be careful if you go higher or lower
   • Mountain bike commuters frequently inflate tires to 80 psi for faster going
   • Tandem riders can inflate hybrid tires to 90 psi or more
5. Tips
   • Use the largest tube that fits your tire; it will hold air longer and resist flats better
   • Check your tire pressure with a gauge before every ride
   • Find a favorite pressure for your tires and stick to it; it may change with different tires

Tools for the Road

1. Know your ability
   • Take tools for work that you can perform
   • Try to fix things if you are sure that you can improve how they work
   • Do not depend on others for your mechanical needs
2. Know your bike
   • Maintain your bike or let a bike shop do it for you; twice a year for heavy use
   • Catch problems before they happen on the road with regular inspections
   • If you have hard to find items on your bike, stock up when you can
3. Know your ride
   • If you are going to be far from civilization, prepare with extra tools or parts
   • For short rides, you might not carry any tools if you don't mind walking
   • Urban areas may have more glass in the roadway; bring patches and a tube
4. Know your tools
   • Tire levers, tube, pump and patch kit for flats
   • Allen wrenches, chain tool and screwdriver for mechanicals
   • Understand which tools are needed for your bike; tools don't fix things, people do
5. Know your options
   • If you carry a phone for emergencies, make sure you have reception on your ride
   • First aid can be an important part of a tool kit; know how to use it
   • Stop to help others but only attempt to fix what you know you can