Miscellaneous
Mountain Biking Lingo
Road Biking Lingo
Anticipating Motorist Errors
Emergency: Instant Turn
Emergency: Quick Stop
Emergency: Rock Dodge
Crash Types
Reacting to Dogs
Lights for Night Mountain Biking
Touring
Tips for Tandems
Kids and Bikes
Buying Your Child a Bike
Bicycling Safely Through a Highway Construction Project
Mountain Biking Lingo
Big Hit Bike
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Full suspension bike designed with over 6 inches of front and rear wheel travel; usually a downhill bike
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| Bomber |
Any part of a bicycle or gear that is designed with strength as its main feature; also a high speed, wide trail downhill section
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| Chute |
A difficult, steep, narrow section of trail; also known as a 'drop'
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| Clean |
To not put a foot down during a tough climb or descent
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| Dab |
To put a foot down during a tough climb or descent
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Drop Trail
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Riding your mountain bike in an area with a lot of climbing and descending
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| Epic |
A long, hard ride with great views, lung-busting climbs and white knuckle descents
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| Hardtail |
A mountain bike with front suspension only
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| OTB |
Either 'Off The Bike' or 'Over The Bars,' depending on context
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| Plush |
Something that takes the sting out of the big hits; usually suspension related
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| Sandbagger |
A rider who races below his true skill level; usually in sport or beginner class
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| Single |
Either your marital status or a one speed mountain bike
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| Sketchy |
Riding a trail out of control or a trail that you can't ride in control
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| Softtail |
A mountain bike with pivot-less rear suspension; chainstay flex affords travel
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| Technical |
A trail description that indicates that there are many obstacles
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| Timber |
Logs down in the trail that you may or may not be able to ride over |
Road Biking Lingo
| Attack |
Accelerating away from the pack of other riders in order to speed up the pace
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| Bonk |
Running out of energy during a ride; avoid this by eating and drinking often
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| Cadence |
Your rate of crank speed, measured in revolutions per minute (rpms)
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| Century |
A one day ride of 100 miles
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| Criterium |
Also known as a 'crit,' this is a multi-lap race on a course about 1 mile in length
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| Draft |
Following closely behind another rider to reduce wind resistance and save energy
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| Dropped |
Getting left behind by a group of riders
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| Drops |
The lowest and most aerodynamic position on road bike handlebars
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Go Juice
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Any performance enhancing substance such as gels or power drinks
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| Hoods |
The soft rubber covers over brake lever mounts
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Metric Century
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A one day 100 kilometer or 62 mile ride
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Off the Back
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Riders who have not been able to keep up with the lead group
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Road Rash
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Any skin abrasion resulting from a brief or extended slide across pavement
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SAG Wagon
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Vehicle used to transport cyclists who have difficulties or gear during a ride
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Riding a Wheel
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Drafting someone while waiting for them to make a move so you can follow
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| Spin |
Concentrating on pedaling at a high cadence
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| Sprint |
Riding as fast and hard as possible to make it to a fixed point
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Anticipating Motorist Errors
- Left turn
- Motorists often misjudge the speed of oncoming cyclists and turn into them
- Make eye contact when approaching a motorist positioned for a left turn ahead of you
- Maintain a straight line unless you need to execute a instant turn or quick stop
- Right turn
- Right turning motorists may turn just after overtaking a cyclist; avoid blind spots
- Be aware of overtaking motorists in high traffic situations with constant scanning
- Watch the front wheel of the car or look for a signal and avoid them as they turn
- Crossing
- Motorists may not recognize a cyclist's right to the road and pull out in front of them
- Do not ride so far to the right that you are not in the motorist's normal scanning area
- Announce your presence loudly to try and get a motorist's attention before they move
- Prevention
- Always wear bright clothing to make yourself more visible day and night
- Learn to recognize when motorists will turn and when they will wait
- Ride predictably where you will be seen and always wear a helmet just in case
- Assert yourself
- Plan to take your right of way but be prepared to act to avoid collision
- Use hand signals, a bell, your voice, lights, anything to get the attention of motorists
- Always be aware of a safe way out whether you expect to use it or not
Emergency: Instant Turn
- Emergency
- If a car turns right while you are next to it, you will have to turn, stop or hit it
- If you don't have your hands on the brakes or just can't stop, you must turn
- The Instant Turn is faster than a normal turn but requires practice
- Handlebar jerk
- The first move is to quickly jerk your handlebar LEFT for a split second
- This sudden move will make the bike lean to the right and set up your turn
- It's important that you do not turn to the left, only your handlebar should move briefly
- Turn
- After your bike is leaned to the right, you must lean in and initiate the turn
- Remember that there might be an obstruction around the turn; pay attention
- Coming close to the car is ok as it would result in only a glancing blow
- Pedal position
- Your right foot should be in the 12, 3 or 9 o'clock position to avoid hitting a pedal
- Pedal position is personal preference; make sure you are confident in your position
- Leaning hard on the outside pedal will help you maintain traction in the turn
- Avoidance
- Avoiding this circumstance is the best way to ride safely
- Remember to take the lane if it too narrow to share safely; your safety is up to you
- Every cyclist should learn and practice the instant turn, rock dodge and quick stop
Emergency: Quick Stop
- Emergency
- A quick stop will allow you to safely stop your bike
- If you must stop to avoid an obstacle
- You do not want to lose control of your bicycle in an emergency situation
- Brake application
- Front brakes have the most power but can cause a crash if misused
- Either brake causes weight to shift forward, increasing the power of the front brake
- Brakes need to be adjusted properly for maximum braking control
- Weight transfer
- Shift weight back over the rear wheel by sliding behind the saddle
- Use your arms to push the bike out in front of you
- Keep the handlebars straight; do not try to turn
- Front brake
- Practice using your front brake to avoid going over the bars
- Braking hard with the front brake causes weight to shift forward
- Apply more front brake than rear; release the brake a bit if the rear wheel skids
- Rear brake
- The rear brake has less stopping power than the front brake
- Too little weight on the rear wheel will cause it to skid
- Not enough weight on the rear wheel will cause the rider to go over the bars
Emergency: Rock Dodge
- Emergency
- Designed to allow you to avoid a hazard and not change road position
- Vital if you are pinned by a gutter on one side and a car on the other
- Your body will travel straight; your bike will avoid the hazard
- Front wheel
- Your front wheel is more important than your rear; you steer with the front wheel
- Just before the hazard, jerk your front wheel around it then back
- Your front wheel should avoid the rock, pothole or trash
- Looking ahead
- Identify hazard, note its distance, keep it in your periphery and look ahead
- Other hazards may be ahead that you will need to prepare for
- Concentrate on riding a straight line while moving the bike around the hazard
- Your body
- Your body should continue straight over the hazard while your bike moves around it
- Standing up with your pedals level will help you maneuver your bike beneath you
- Un-weight the rear wheel in case you hit the hazard with your rear wheel
- Rear wheel
- Ideally you should not hit the hazard with either wheel; practicing will help
- Lift up off of the saddle in case your rear wheel hits the hazard
- Try to lean forward just a bit to get the rear wheel over or around the obstacle
Crash Types
Motorist at Fault
| Crash Type |
Frequency |
| Motorist turn/merge into cyclist's path |
34% |
| Motorist driving out from a stop sign |
16% |
| Motorist exiting driveway/alley |
10% |
Adult Cyclist at Fault
| Crash Type |
Frequency |
| Cyclist turn/merge into motorist path |
6% |
| Cyclist overtaking motorist |
6% |
| Cyclist rideout at traffic signal |
5% |
Children
| Crash Type |
Nonfatal |
Fatal |
| Cyclist stop sign violation |
17% |
12% |
| Cyclist unexpected turn/swerve |
14% |
16% |
| Cyclist rideout |
14% |
15% |
| Motorist overtaking |
10% |
38% |
Sources: Cross K.D., and Fisher, G., A Study of Bicycle/Motor Vehicle Accidents: Identification of Problem Types and Countermeasure Approaches, Volume I, Washington, DC, NHTSA, Sept 1977, PB 282 280.
Ross, Arthur, How Bicycle Crashes Happen, Madison Department of Transportation, Madison, WI, 1992.
Reacting to Dogs
- Priorities
- Make sure that you do not hit the dog; you will fall and you might kill the dog
- Stay in control of the bike; if you panic then you might lose control and fall
- Try to not hurt yourself or the dog; you are just riding and he is just being a dog
- Non-aggressive approach
- Continue pedaling and ride past the dog; he is protecting his territory and should stop
- Remember that some dogs bark and chase for fun with no intention of attacking
- The faster you and your feet are moving, the less likely you are of being bitten
- Aggressive approach
- Yelling at the dog will usually startle the dog enough to get him to disengage
- Spray water from your waterbottle into his face; he'll get a drink and back off
- Physical violence and pepper spray should only be used in extreme cases
Lights for Night Mountain Biking
- Wattage
- Off-road riding requires a minimum of 10 watts
- Lights are available with up to 45 watts of halogen power
- High quality rechargeable lights start at around $100
- Power source
- Most rechargeable batteries are either lead acid, nicad or nickel metal hydride
- Generally, the more expensive the battery, the lighter it is and the longer it burns
- Batteries come in waterbottle-style, jersey pocket size or strap to your top tube size
- Helmet mount
- Helmet mounts allow you to look around corners; must reach light for on/off
- Batteries can be kept in hydration packs or jersey pockets, depending on size
- Can get caught in trees, affect helmet in a crash, might cause helmet to sag forward
- Bar mount
- Most have switches mounted on bar to change light levels easily
- Batteries usually mounted in bottle cage or strapped to top tube
- Hard to see into corners with spotlight; secure mount will reduce movement
- Spot vs. flood
- Spotlights use less power and burn longer; great for climbing to conserve light
- Floodlights use more power and burn less; great for singletrack and fast open trails
- The best scenario is to have one flood light and one spot light at your command
Touring
- Visibility
- exert greater caution on hills and corners which limit cyclists' visibility
- motorists do not expect to encounter cyclists on low volume roads
- Motorists are familiar with the triangle as a warning sign; attach one to your bike
- Equipment
- Bring tools and parts to deal with mechanical failures which can leave you stranded
- Water, food, sunscreen and first aid all are necessities on rural rides
- Choose a bike that is capable of handling gravel or poorly maintained roads
- Route planning
- Use an updated area map for all rides; a compass or GPS unit can also be helpful
- Plan routes based on availability of supplies and your willingness to carry them
- Passing through small towns will allow you to rest, fuel up and get your bearings
- Weather
- Be aware of possible changes in weather and pack accordingly
- Strong headwinds can severely slow your pace; be prepared to alter your course
- Be prepared for the worst that you can expect that season on any given day
Tips for Tandems
- Who's the captain?
- The front rider or captain is usually the heavier or more experienced cyclist
- Captain sets the pace, decides when to shift and brake, and steers
- Letting the stoker know what is going on is the Captain's responsibility
- Who's the stoker?
- The lighter or less experienced cyclist sits in the back (it's more relaxing anyway)
- Stoker must pay attention to the captain and communicate about pace
- Let the captain know when you need to readjust something, take a drink or rest
- Mounting the bike
- Captain should mount bike and stand flat-footed while holding bike upright
- Stoker mounts bike and straps or clips in to pedals
- Captain should get one foot on pedal in 2 o'clock position then stand up and take off
- Shifting
- Captain should call out up and down shifts to stoker
- Front derailleur shifts should be announced and practiced with extra care
- Captains should be mindful of the experience level of the stoker and not scare them
- Braking
- Some tandems have stoker-controlled drag brakes for the faint of heart
- Disk, vee and road brakes are available on tandems
- Hard braking on a tandem is easy to do with all of that weight; just tell the stoker
- Stopping
- It is the captain's job to make sure the tandem comes to a controlled stop
- Support the stoker by removing one foot and leaning slightly to that side
- Remove other foot quickly and hold tandem upright, allowing stoker to dismount
- Comfort
- More comfortable seats are a necessity on a bike that you will mostly stay seated on
- The captain has it easy, sitting between the wheels is the smoothest place to be
- Add a suspension seatpost for the stoker; they can't prepare for bumps
- Choosing a tandem
- If you're a mountain biker, try a full-suspension tandem for off-road fun
- Most road tandems can accept up to 40mm wide tires for comfort and stability
- Some inexpensive production tandems are great buys; custom ones can be expensive
Kids and Bikes
- When
- Once a child can hold their head up and fit a helmet, they can be a passenger
- Until about age five, kids should ride in a child seat, or better yet, a trailer
- Kids need basic motor skills to operate a bike
- Traffic
- Explain to kids how traffic works; they have only been passengers
- Teach them about yielding, passing, predicting and traffic law
- Bicycle riders have to obey the same rules as cars and buses
- Helmets
- Let them pick out their helmet and they will want to wear it; wear yours also
- Make sure that the helmet fits the child properly; level on the head and snug
- Replace the helmet after a crash
- Training wheels
- Training wheels help the child develop a sense of balance
- Start with the training wheels solidly on the ground; they will hold the bike upright
- Gradually raise the training wheels; remove them when they start to get in the way
- Balance
- Practice balancing in an open field or vacant parking lot
- Have the child practice riding in circles as well as in a straight line
- Show them how to use the brakes; get them to skid the rear wheel
- Starting and stopping
- Children should learn to stop before entering the roadway
- Look left, then right, then left again before proceeding
- Driveways, sidewalks and crosswalks are potential danger zones
- Riding straight
- Use a painted line in a parking lot
- Straight-line riding will allow drivers to predict what the child will do
- Predictability is important in any traffic situation; kids don't know this
- Scanning and signaling
- Have the child ride straight and look back at you without swerving
- Children must scan for traffic in front of them as well as behind before signaling
- Teach them how to signal right, left and stop and when to do it
- Neighborhood ride
- Plan a ride with your child around you neighborhood and discuss possible dangers
- Allow your child to lead
- Include them in the planning of the ride
- Transportation choices
- Bikes are vehicles; this is their introduction to driver's training
- Plan a route with your child to get them to a friend's house or school by bike
- At about 10, kids are ready for longer trips; make sure they make safe decisions
Buying Your Child a Bike
- Sizing
- Your child should be able to straddle the top tube with both feet on the ground
- Adjust the reach of the handlebars so the child is comfortable and sitting upright
- Bikes should not be 'grown into'; buy a bike that safely fits your child
- Hand vs. pedal brakes
- Pedal brakes should be the child's first brakes; teach them to stop at a fixed point
- Small children may not be able to use hand brakes due to lack of strength and reach
- Use lever 'reach adjusters' to bring brake levers closer for smaller hands
- Training wheels
- Start with both training wheels on the ground; gradually move them up every week
- Children should use training wheels to learn to balance
- If a child is unwilling to take them off, raise them so they don't touch the ground
- BMX
- Dirt jumping requires safety gear including full-face helmet, shin pads and gloves
- Beginners should also consider elbow pads, knee pads and wrist guards
- Not all bikes are strong enough to jump; check with your local bike shop
- Freestyle
- Flatland trick riding requires safety gear; helmet, glove and shin pads are important
- Freestyle bikes have 'pegs' on front and rear axles that allow standing
- Never allow your child to transport other children on their bike
- Mountain
- Children should wear a helmet and gloves when mountain biking
- Ride or walk with your child so you know the trails that they will be riding
- Set specific boundaries for where your child can and cannot ride
- Growing into a bike
- Don't buy a bike that does not fit your child; too small later is better than too big now
- Quality bikes will be easier to resell; they last longer as hand-me-downs also
- Make sure that your child's bike fits them by checking with your local bike shop
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Ride Better
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